Dharamsala-McLeodganj, Himachal Pradesh, India

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Dharamsala / McLeodganj

Dharamsala

What is it? The home of the Dalai Lama and a hill station
Where is it? Himachal Pradesh
Whe do I go? July to August
For how long? Two days
STD Code: 01899

Everyone knows about Dharamsala; that’s because everyone knows about Tibet, and how the Dalai Lama lives gracefully here in exile, waiting for the day when the last of China’s troops will finally leave his beautiful country. What most people don’t know is that the great man’s actual headquarters are located 4 km above this town, at Gangchen Kyishong.
His presence has meant that Dharamsala has evolved into an international crossroads of sorts, a blend of flavours of Tibet and India. Buddhist monks and nuns walk down the streets seemingly oblivious to the trappings of a material world, and the government-in-exile tries hard to wake the rest of the world from its indifference.
But in the end, what has changed Dharamsala from a sleepy British hill station to a place of pilgrimage for thousands over the world is the electric presence of one man, a modest man at that.
Dharamsala is a story of waiting, a persistent but dignified battle, and of a bond between two countries that stretches beyond all geographical limits. And the million-dollar question is: when Tibet gains its freedom, as it inevitably will, will Dharamsala lose its charm forever Not really; beautiful orchids will still flower in the surrounding valleys, and the mountains will stand quiet guard over the town, as they have for all time.

The legend behind the Bhagsunath Temple
Almost 10,000 years ago, the kingdom of Ajmer (in present-day Rajasthan) was reeling under a severe drought. In order to save his kingdom, King Bhagsu climbed a nearby mountain 5400 m high, where he discovered two lakes, and drew their water into his bowl. But as the king lay down to rest, Nag, the cobra who owned the lakes, challenged him to a duel. Nag won, but even as the king breathed his last, he begged the victor to rid Ajmer of the drought. Impressed by Bhagsu’s devotion to his subjects, Nag granted his wish. The Bhagsunath Temple at Bhagsu commemorates the event, as also the snake-god’s respect for the slain king.

About Dharamsala / McLeodganj

History
When China annexed Tibet in 1959, the 14th Dalai Lama and his Buddhist government didn’t have too many options. Not many countries were willing to risk the wrath of the Communist rulers of China, a nation that was just beginning to flex its muscle in the international arena. It was the Indian government that came to their rescue, offering them asylum in Dharamsala, a hill station in Himachal Pradesh that the British discovered in 1815, and used as a getaway from the stifling heat of the plains in summer. Of course, there are those who aver that the Tibetan refugees were of great propaganda value at a time when India and China were not the best of neighbours. Whatever the reasons, a steady stream of Tibetans has relocated here since 1960, as much to escape Chinese oppression as to bask in the presence of the man they regard as their spiritual and political leader.

Geography
Embraced by the craggy Dauladhar range of mountains and surrounded by pine and deodhar forests, Dharamsala allows you an unparalleled view of the Kangra Valley, and also a few Himalayan peaks. It actually comprises two distinct and widely separated sections, which differ in their altitude by almost 1,000 m; the odd geography is due to a massive earthquake (in 1905) which killed 900 people in the Kangra Valley, and also destroyed most of the hill station’s buildings. Chastised, the British administration established Lower Dharamsala, which today houses offices and banks, and is mostly populated by Indians.
However, it is the largely Tibetan enclave of Upper Dharamsala (better known as McLeodganj) that draws tourists to the area. Seven roads branch off from McLeodganj’s main bus circle, which also happens to be centrally placed. The first, Cantonment road, is used by buses plying to and from Lower Dharamsala. Taken clockwise, the next is called the Taxi Stand road, and leads to the Tibetan Children’s Village. Then comes a steep road leading to Dharamkot, followed by TIPA road, which also winds its way to Dharamkot, passing the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA) on the way. The fifth road is the Bhagsu road, lined with restaurants and hotels, which leads to where else but Bhagsu. Next is Jogibara road, once again replete with restaurants and guest houses. Finally, Temple road will take you to the Dalai Lama’s residence, Tsuglagkhang (the Main Temple) and Namgyal Monastery.
A steep 30-minute descent down either Jogibara or Temple road will get you to Gangchen Kyishong, the Tibetan government-in-exile’s administrative complex, which also contains the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives. Another 15-minute descent, and you’ll find yourself in the Kotwali bazaar, in the centre of Lower Dharamsala.

Location of Dharamsala

For more information on the following topics, please see our Dharamsala travel guide from the link at the end of the article:
- Getting there
- Getting around
- Sights & Sounds
- Excursions
- Accommodation
- Eating Out
- Shopping
- Useful Information
- Survival Guide

Dharamsala-McLedoganj, Himachal Pradesh The complete guide to the hilly, Buddhist & one of the best tourist places in India – Dharamsala-McLeodganj, in the hilly Northern state of Himachal Pradesh in India. Get all the information you need – getting there, getting away, excursions, sights & sounds, things to do, useful information, etc. Price: $6.49